Across the Nullarbor 1,746 km/1,084 mi.: 11 – 20 October 2002
The first part of this section, the Albany – Esperance – Norseman 638 km part, is uncharted territory in my guide and bicycle books. Roff Smith rode through it, and gives this two weeks of his life exactly three sentences. Esperance should be nice and Norseman serviceable, but those are the only two towns with grocery stores for the next 1,200 miles. The road starts coming in huge chunks here. I’ll be riding a 26 lb. bike, with 26 lbs of equipment and another 26 lbs. of liquids. Wind willing, I’ll try to make the 289 and 329 km days. I will be prepared to camp out anywhere.
Segment
Journey
Night of
City
km
miles
km
miles
11-Oct
Albany
248
154
791
492
12-Oct
Jerramungup
180
112
971
603
13-Oct
Ravensthorpe
113
70
1,084
674
14-Oct
Esperance
187
116
1,271
790
15-Oct
Norseman
207
129
1,478
918
16-Oct
Balladonia H
193
120
1,671
1,038
17-Oct
Cocklebiddy M
248
154
1,919
1,192
18-Oct
Border Village
289
180
2,208
1,372
19-Oct
Coorable
329
204
2,537
1,576
20-Oct
Ceduna
151
94
2,688
1,670
Larger cities (tens of thousands of people or more) are in Bold
Smaller towns (thousands of people) are in Italics
We’re hoping for anything in the places with plain type
Oh, and the yellow indicates problematic days
Anticipated Highlights:
Esparance: It’s supposed to have a beautiful harbor in a friendly
town.
“For most of the twentieth century the area around Esperance
was regarded as too infertile for intense agriculture. It wasn't until
1949 that the Esperance Downs Research Station discovered that the
local soil only needed additional trace elements to make it fertile.
This simple discovery turned the area into a successful producer of
wheat, sheep and cattle. “The success of this venture is vividly expressed
in the fact that in 1954 there were 36 farmers on about 8 000 hectares
and by the mid 1980s there were 600 farmers utilising over 400 000
hectares. It was a good combination of Australian technology and American
capital.” walkabout.com.au
Norseman: “There were no other bicycles –
and not much traffic at all – on the scorching morning when
I rolled into town. It was already well over 100F, with not a patch
of shade to be seen. The glary streets of Norseman – a last
chance water hole for anyone heading east across the Nullarbor –
were dozing in the heat.”Smith
The Nullarbor: “Endlessly, monotonously,
we vacuumed up ties as we progressed, but however much we pressed
onward the vanishing point stayed always in the same place. You couldn’t
look at it – well, I couldn’t look at it – without
getting a headache.
‘How far is it to the next curve?’ I asked.
‘Three hundred and sixty kilometers,’ Willis answered.
‘Don’t you go crazy out here?’”Bryson
(he was on a train)
Ceduna: “The first town of any significance
after the Nullarbor Plain, Ceduna is a welcome break. … On the
shores of Murat Bay this town of 3,500 looks out to St. Peters Island,
the location where, the locals will tell you, Jonathon Swift had Gulliver
meeting the tiny Lilliput people on his travels.”Salter